DISCLAIMER:

"Be aware that in the context of retro gaming, there are two types of csync signals:  TTL and 75 Ohm.  Most displays and processors will require 75 Ohm csync, but some can accept TTL.  As a general rule, unless your setup specifically requires otherwise, your target goal is that the cables you use with your consoles will all be outputting a 75 Ohm signal and the target device will also be receiving a 75 Ohm signal."  RetroRGB 

Before buy, be sure You have proper 75Ohm sync cables.  

Ulitmate scart switch for most demanding setups

16 INPUTS; 2 OUTPUTS

Fully automatic SCART switch with full galvanic inputs separation. 

• 16 scart inputs ( RGB, s-video, composite) - easily expandable 24 inputs with HYDRA HEADS device
• 2 scart ouput -  now, You can connect Your 2 ouput devices !!
• "Knight rider" style active scart detection
• full ROHS
• AVR controller with firmware future updates
• HQ plexi transparent ( made by me ;-) at my laser machine)
• STEREO RCA audio output 
• IR controlled
• manual/automatic mode
• MICRO USB power supply (regular mobile phone charger 5V will do the job - please, use sth decent - approx 1A)
• Dedicted remote sold separately - soon; thus You can always use any NEC/ENEC compatible one You may already have - Please, check FAQ tab above

How doees it work ?

      Imagine, You have many retro system in use. Amiga, Atari ST, ZX spectrum, etc... And You have only one classical TV/Monitor with one SCART INPUT. Each time, You want to switch system, You have to connect Your machine to Your monitor. Everytime, You do it - You damage scart socket inside. Those days are over. Connect up to 24 computers/consoles to HYDRA, then connect HYDRA to Your TV/Monitor and power on hydra. Since now, HYDRA will detect active scart input and forward all signals to Your monitor. Simple and efficent.

Please, remember:

NEVER connect / disconnect  SCART PLUGS

while HYDRA IS SCANNING for ACTIVE PORT

You may ask why..

           Designing device, I put much effort  into ability to  passthrough many types of signals: from composite to component. To protect device and not to cut signal`s range, HYDRAs have additional ESD protection diodes, but for a short period of time when scanning for active scart, Hydra is defenseless. If You got hit that moment plugging powered on device, You will damage RGB chip with ESD voltage that may reach thousands of  volts (not dangerous for you, but electronics is fragile..). This chip may become very hot and protection will probably brick hydra till one of chips is replaced (NCS2564). Cost of repair is 10Euro !!!

Possible symptoms:

• knight rider effect stops
• one scart port doesn`t work
• Interferences between ports
• HD led doesn`t work anymore

USE SIMPLEST SCART CABLES POSSIBBLE 

• No tricky electronics inside as NOT NEEDED. Hydra has built in all necessary features
• Hydra loves composite video or luma at pin 20 of scart
• When You have fun, Hydra does plenty of work – let it work
• Hydra doesn`t like and will not lock on scart with TTL csync as it doesn’t follow scart 75ohm standard – nevertheless source connected directly to Your TV works OK

BUTTONS:

• left - scan for active source to the left from active one (if active is far left, no action) /  next scart in manual mode
• right - scan for active source to the right from active one (if active is far right, no action) / previous scart in manual mode
• middle - HD/LOW PASS filter (led on/off) - default ON
• left+right pressed - disables "knight rider led effect"
• middle + right - Automatic/manual mode
• CS1 - input`s pin 20 source signal / composite sync (stripped) ouput for scart 1
• CS2 - input`s pin 20 source signal / composite sync (stripped) ouput for scart 2

W-Hydra2 16:2 port scart switcher, may be “easily” expanded with  additional HYDRA HEADS devices to offer outstanding 24inputs scart functionality.

How does it work ?

• Additional Hydra Heads unit may be added to previously  installed one to achieve 24 inputs. 
• BOTTOM SWITCH MUST BE SET IN 24P mode.

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